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Has the world really hit “peak wine”?

Here’s a take on the global and South African wine slowdown


For decades, wine felt untouchable — romantic, cultural, aspirational. Ernest Hemingway once joked that his only regret was not drinking more of it.

Today, the industry would kill for that kind of enthusiasm. Global demand is slipping, and the data suggests we’ve crossed an uncomfortable threshold: “peak wine”.

📉 A global market losing its thirst

According to IWSR data, wine volumes in major markets were already about 9% lower in 2024 than at their 2014 peak. And unlike previous dips tied to recessions or financial shocks, this downturn is structural. People simply aren’t drinking as much wine — full stop.

Several forces are converging:

  • Health consciousness is reshaping drinking habits. In the US, 53% of consumers now believe even moderate drinking is unhealthy, up from 22% twenty years ago.
  • Low‑ and no‑alcohol alternatives are booming. RTD seltzers, canned cocktails, and functional beverages are stealing occasions once dominated by wine.
  • Demographics are shifting. Baby boomers — wine’s most loyal cohort — are ageing out, while Gen Z is far less engaged. In Australia, wine consumption among 18–24s halved between 2010 and 2023.
  • Cultural shifts are accelerating abstention. From “California sober” micro‑dosing to GLP‑1 weight‑loss drugs that reduce appetite and alcohol intake, wine is losing cultural relevance.

The result: a category that once felt culturally bulletproof is now fighting for relevance.

🍇 Industry anxiety: From Bordeaux to the back label

Producers are bracing for more turbulence. Bordeaux — still the world’s largest fine‑wine region — is being watched closely as a bellwether for pricing and demand.

Vineyards in several countries are already being ripped up to make way for more profitable crops. Consolidation is expected to accelerate as mid‑tier producers struggle.

And then there’s the regulatory cloud. With the WHO declaring “no safe level of alcohol consumption” and US health officials pushing for cancer warnings on bottles, some fear wine could be regulated — and taxed — more like tobacco.

💎 But it’s not all doom and gloom

Premiumisation is still alive. Consumers may be drinking less, but they’re often drinking better. Think of it like the watch industry: smartphones killed the everyday wristwatch, but luxury timepieces are thriving.

As wealth transfers from boomers to Gen X and millennials, high‑end wine could benefit. And for everyday drinkers, falling demand is creating what some analysts call a “golden era for value”.

South Africa: Where does it fit into the peak‑wine story?

South Africa mirrors many of the global trends, but with its own twists.

📉 Domestic consumption has been sliding

Industry reports from Vinpro and SAWIS show:

  • Per‑capita wine consumption in SA has been declining for more than a decade.
  • Younger South Africans are shifting toward RTDs, ciders, and spirits — especially flavoured gin and vodka-based drinks.
  • Low‑ and no‑alcohol categories are growing, driven by health concerns and stricter drinking‑and‑driving enforcement.
  • Economic pressure is pushing consumers toward cheaper beverages, which hurts mid‑tier wine brands.

🍷 But SA’s premium segment is resilient

Much like global markets:

  • Premium and super‑premium Cape wines continue to grow, especially in export markets.
  • DTC and cellar‑door sales remain strong, driven by tourism and local wine culture.
  • South Africa’s fine‑wine scene is booming, with record auction prices and rising international acclaim.

🌍 Exports tell a mixed story

  • Bulk wine exports remain under pressure.
  • Packaged premium wines are performing better, especially in the UK, US, and parts of Europe.
  • Climate‑related vineyard reductions in Europe may create medium‑term opportunities for SA producers.

🥂 The bottom line

Wine isn’t disappearing — but the era of mass‑market, high‑frequency consumption is fading. The future belongs to:

  • Premium producers.
  • Brands that innovate in low‑ and no‑alcohol.
  • Wineries that understand younger drinkers’ values.
  • Producers who can tell a compelling, authentic story

For South Africa, the challenge is clear: to adapt to shifting drinking cultures while doubling down on the country’s strengths — quality, diversity, and a global reputation that’s never been stronger.

Source: The Economist